Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Appetite Extra: More on Upstairs at La Baguette

Posted By on Wed, Jan 23, 2013 at 1:20 PM

Our dining review in this week's Indy is on the new, semi-secret Upstairs at La Baguette.

If it's not clear in the review, I really like the place.

But I wasn't able to share my full experience within the bounds of the limited space in our print edition, which happens occasionally.

So I'd like to submit the following as just some extra tidbits that I found worthy of sharing as somewhat of a supplement to the print review.

In no particular order:

• The olive oil mentioned is a small-production Grecian oil procured by a Chicago importer. Owner Toni Rog personally drove 2,000 pounds of the oil here from the Windy City.

• Rog says he’ll soon add higher-priced wines by the glass (thanks to a new argon system that reduces waste) but that he’ll keep them fairly priced too — “my markup is not three times,” he says, insisting he’s not looking to make big money from ULB, since the bakery is literally his bread and butter.

• With the fondue, celery and carrots are brought at no charge by request, and the binder for the cheese is a small amount of cornstarch, making the cheese gluten-free as well.

• Two olive tapanades are mentioned. One is an herb-walnut, the other is a lovely anchovy purée spiked with capers, cognac and faintly detectible orange zest.

• Artworks that include a mural of a cypress-tree dotted landscape à la the Italian countryside adorn the walls. In that mural, notice how the central mountain looks like a tribute to Pikes Peak.

• ULB only holds 38 people according to a fire code sign near the bar — so I wouldn't be surprised if it maxes out capacity on popular weekends in the future.

• Regarding the absinthe service, three are liquorish-heavy French varieties and the fourth is Denver’s superior Leopold Bros.

Upstairs at La Baguette
  • Matthew Schniper
  • As briefly described in my review, an absinthe pitcher drops ice water through a slotted spoon to sweeten and dilute the base liquor.

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