Why-HOP 

Manitou's ambitious new creperie skips around the globe, sometimes farther than it should

I welcome a diverse menu, so long as the foods' flavors are as great as the menu's scope. But recent samplings at Manitou Springs' new Coquette Creperie yanked my taste buds from one extreme to another — some delighted, others disappointed.

The inconsistency began before I even put thin pancake to palate. I'm a huge virtual diner, and got excited trolling Coquette's Web site, with its campy, '50s pin-up waitress logo and whimsical menu descriptions. But upon entry, the sepia-toned enclave felt more like a coffeehouse than a sassy eatery.

That in mind, I wasn't surprised to find plenty of spirit in Coquette's brewed beverages. The lavender-infused mocha ($4.75) sports a rich, velvety and creamy taste. And a loose-leaf and toasted rice tea ($3) offers a pleasant, earthy flavor.

Commitments to keeping all crepes (and sausage) 100 percent gluten-free, and to serving all-natural Red Bird chicken, also deserve praise.

Another bright spot comes in the form of the outfit's dessert crepes. The Cheeky Monkey ($7.25), a crepe filled with sliced bananas and Nutella (Europe's chocolate-and-hazelnut version of peanut butter) had me thinking of a wine-soaked night in Paris. Sweet, rich and drizzled with chocolate and fresh whipped cream, it proved a dessert-lover's dream. And the orange-flavored, Grand Marnier-soaked crepe Suzette ($8) is a hangover waiting to happen.

Co-owner Turu Fleites worked and traveled around Europe, which is where her love of crepes was born. It was only cemented by time in San Francisco. Dynamic and passionate, with a musical background and burgundy-colored hair, Fleites says she wanted to merge all her food loves together. What you get, as Turu's husband and co-owner Hiram recently told another local media outlet, is "gastronomic collision."

He's right. But collision differs from fusion.

A timing issue at breakfast had our meals arrive before our drinks. And the overpriced New Yorker ($10.50), with citrus-marinated salmon, egg and red onion was dry and smelled a bit too fishy. The congealed dollop of hollandaise on top and the chunks of raw red onion didn't enliven it.

Dryness proved a common theme, as the South of the Border ($8.95) with chorizo, Swiss, red onion and black beans had only a thimble of salsa. The "fruit of the day" that accompanies all breakfast crepes consisted of a round slice of orange, half a strawberry and two slivers of green apple — pretty much garnish.

Lunch was a head-scratcher. The Tokyo, at a hefty $13, features beautiful, sesame-encrusted rare ahi tuna that's completely demolished by a wasabi cream cheese.

Also in need of a tune-up: the flavorless Indian ($9.50) of chicken, basmati rice, peas and carrots in a mostly-absent coconut curry sauce.

Turu's enthusiasm for all cultural flavors explodes onto the rest of the menu: Greeks, Mexicans and cowboys all get the crepe treatment. The only thing missing is, say, "The Lederhosen," a schnitzel-filled crepe. While dishes can be served sans crepe (with rice instead), the whole concept begs the question: Does every cuisine belong in a crepe?

Upon leaving, I snatched a take-away menu, which shows soon-to-be-implemented appetizers of hummus, bruschetta and cheese plates. Fleites says she's adding it to accommodate evening events.

However it grows and changes, potential abounds for this funky place if it just dials down the four-corners approach. The crepe is a beautiful thing, but it just doesn't travel as well as you might think.

scene@csindy.com

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I am a Manitou resident as well, and I love the idea of this wonderful restaurant, but unfortunately I had an experience much like Monika's. I have heard others say it is just inconsistent. I will continue to support this restaurant because I believe it is important to support local and I know that new places sometimes have a hard time getting into the swing of things, but I do ultimately hope for more next time I go.

Posted by cyber on November 1, 2009 at 8:45 PM | Report this comment

My wife and I liked the scope of the menu. But unfortunately they could not deliver constistent or quaility food. They are very over priced for this quality of food and location.

Posted by SciFi on October 25, 2009 at 9:40 AM | Report this comment

I am also a Manitou resident and love love love the addition of Coquette Creperie. I've been several times and none of my experiences reflect the snarky drivel espoused by Ms. Randall. I'm sure that consistency can be an issue with any newer restaurant, but each meal I've had at Coquette has been absolutely delicious. I recommend trying this one out for yourself folks as Ms. Randall has clearly missed the mark here.

Posted by phornsby on October 22, 2009 at 11:59 PM | Report this comment

I live in Manitou and I'm way thrilled about the new option in town. Finally some diversification!! I'm blown away by Monika's attitude. What's her problem with some international flair in Manitou? I think the crepes and the environment are really special, and yes, their crazy cocktails too! Maybe Monika could have used one herself. Lighten up Ms. M. The only likeness to a coffee house is that you want to hang out there a long time 'cause its so comfy. And Why-Hop? You guys are sinking to new lows.
So, I guess the fact that the owners were in a band is why they have such great background music playing. I think in one hour I heard everything from French singers to Laugh Out Loud. Try that at the Townhouse or the Keg. If Monika lived in Manitou she might be kissing someone's feet who sported what she called 'burgandy' hair -- as well as being food-blind I think she's also color-blind. Red is red. And I think I'm seeing 'red' now myself.

Posted by manitoucitizen on October 22, 2009 at 10:36 PM | Report this comment

"We walked the streets for a while and spotted, Croquette Crêperie, serving specialty crepes for lunch and dinner alongside live music and a great selection of drinks. We loved the menu with a mélange of crepes filled with ingredients from all over the world. It is not your average crepe stand serving nutella filled crepes, these are savory lunch and dinner crepes and are all gluten free. I enjoyed a Greek Style crepe, with chicken, sautéed red pepper, tomato, kalamata olives, zucchini, spinach, feta, tzatziki, and served with mixed greens in a citrus basil vinaigrette....This restaurant has only been in business in Manitou for a few months."

Posted by vintage mixer on October 22, 2009 at 10:34 AM | Report this comment

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