A 'new' Saigon reopens on the east side 

West-side staple is reborn and relished across town

I am buried in seafood lightly lacquered in brown sauce and heaped high upon thin, crispy, chow mein-like wheat noodles. Dramatic shapes and angles collide at random: ribbed, mandoline-cut carrots; bushy, halved broccoli florets; round-edge button mushrooms; thick scallop wheels; tubular squid…

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