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Tiaquepaque's Jalisco style deserves all the praise it gets 

click to enlarge Tiaquepaque's double-fried tacos (tacos dorados se birria). - GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
  • Tiaquepaque's double-fried tacos (tacos dorados se birria).
Tlaquepaque was lauded with about the highest praise we give when we first reviewed it in 2015. If you still haven’t visited the colorful eatery, you should, for the Jaliscoan hangover favorite, birria, made here with beef versus the traditional goat or lamb. Instead of a soup bowl of the lengthily stewed and softened, shredded bliss, grab as many double-layer fried tacos ($2.99 each, listed as tacos dorados de birria) as you please. Oil and juices drip out as you crunch in, met by a bouquet of deep seasoning from a lengthy list of spices; caramelized onions provide a momentary sweet offset. Squirt excellent chile de árbol or tomatillo sauce for more spice or vinegar punch — also a good idea on the burrito al pastor ($7.99). A griddle-toasted flour tortilla shell gushes a steamy, almost-creamy mix of the shawarma-style pork mixed with rice, beans and crisp lettuce as we knife into it, as if the ingredients are equally as eager to be in our bellies as we are to have them. Despite an absence of residual citrus sweetness that often typifies the dish, it’s rich and fulfilling, complemented perfectly by sugary cups ($2.20 each) of tart hibiscus jamaica, and horchata that channels post-Cinnamon Toast Crunch-milk.

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