Monday, April 27, 2015

Rise of the gourmet Cowboy

Posted By on Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 5:48 PM

click to enlarge Outside signage. - MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
  • Outside signage.
Cowboy Star finally opens in University Village tomorrow. 

They are the lauded San Diego-based steakhouse we first told you about last August in Side Dish, who were head-hunted by local developers, and who focus on high-end, natural meats.  

The outfit hosted a media preview this past Friday evening, where we were treated to samples of several cocktails, a few starters, four entrées and two desserts, plus a tour of the stunning space. 

We generally refrain from too much critical observation during these previews in anticipation of our regular review process at a later date. So I won't go dish by dish here with commentary. But the photos below tell their own story. 

We were quite impressed at more than one turn and the quality of the meats is unquestionable. Chef Victor Jimenez also won our hearts when he talked about taking the kitchen staff out foraging for local ingredients when he gets time. And co-owner Jon Weber proved quite a storyteller over dinner with an intimate account of the restaurant's vision, founding and philosophy. 

I will also say that the Caesar salad was simply perfect and the beef plates in particular shine: the tartare and the phenomenal Porterhouse. We scraped marrow; we dragged incredibly sharp new knifes across bone; we hit fat pockets that forced euphoria. So far, I rather like this place. 


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