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A fine pomegranate sour and quinoa burger at Manitou Brewing Company 

click to enlarge The burger patty’s nice and crispy from a deep-fryer bath, supported by more crunch courtesy of corn tortilla chips layered inside the brioche bun. - MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
  • The burger patty’s nice and crispy from a deep-fryer bath, supported by more crunch courtesy of corn tortilla chips layered inside the brioche bun.

Manitou Brewing Company, 725 Manitou Ave., 282-7709, manitou-brewing.com

Manitou Brewing’s happy hockey puck of a veggie quinoa burger holds up well, even several minutes after I’ve departed the brewery, where I’d enjoyed a Granada Agridulce ($5.98/13-ounce) while I waited. The burger patty’s nice and crispy from a deep-fryer bath, supported by more crunch courtesy of corn tortilla chips layered inside the brioche bun.

Black beans and roasted corn and red peppers make for vegetal filler but the quinoa remains the lead tasting note; ranch dressing’s barely present on my burger, though sharp onion flavor lingers on the palate long after the whole affair’s concluded. Side slaw’s wet, snappy and a hint sweet. As for the brew: “Agridulce” means “bittersweet” in Spanish, and the Spanish city of Granada’s symbol is the pomegranate, hence this kettle-soured (with pediococcus, brew-friendly bacteria that produce lactic acid, commonly used for lambics) ale fueled by house yeast and a “load of pomegranate fruit.”

As described, it’s tart and a little sweet, tangy in that it bites the undersides and edges of the tongue while washing smoothly over the top at a nice, light 5 percent ABV. What I like (as I’m not a fan of super sours) is what I call its “gateway sour” quality, in that it’s only mildly so and a great introduction to the style without going full-bore mouth-pucker.

On that note, I’m still hoping to see the return of a brilliant sour from brewer Dominic Koh (a lactobacillus one flush with orange essence) called Camarillo Brillo.

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