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All Star Pizzeria's new neighborhood spot 

click to enlarge All Star Pizzeria's pickle ranch pizza. - GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
  • All Star Pizzeria's pickle ranch pizza.
Eight months ago, All Star Pizzeria (which also serves subs, wings and pastas) moved from Vickers near Academy across most of the length of town to Fountain. According to my server, the owners were after a more consistent customer base. Hopefully, they got it.

We go for a house special we’ve never seen before: the pickle ranch pizza ($22.99/20-inch), which features ranch instead of red sauce, diced white onions, bacon, ground beef and pickles. While we doubt it’ll be the Taste Sensation Sweeping the Nation, it’s good, with pickle and ranch tang replacing red sauce acidity. The bacon’s overdone, unfortunately, and the pink centers in the bigger ground beef chunks on ours suggest they’re only cooked in the oven, a problem when the size varies as much as it does. Their crust also disappoints; it’s too dense, lacking the more complex structure that makes good pizza dough light and delicious. Still, it’s a wholly serviceable neighborhood pizzeria.

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