Favorite

Arnold’s Coffee and Donuts makes a case for fritters 

click to enlarge GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell

Siblings Kenny and James Arnold, along with James’ wife Emily, opened this little donut shop on 4/20 this year. Call it juvenile to snicker at that undeniably shrewd business decision, but their donuts are no laughing matter. We recently picked up a dozen and found ourselves damn happy for it. The standout: The Arnolds make a great fritter. When we visit, they offer apple fritters and blueberry fritters, both tender and perfumed with cinnamon. Blueberries and cinnamon make good friends, though the fruit doesn’t entirely stand up to all the sugar and dough; tartness would help.

The apple fritters get a little more leeway in that, with the flavor of cooked apples and the actual pieces of apple playing a strong role. We also enjoy the old fashioned donuts, rich to the point of butteriness, satisfying whether plain or blueberry. For raised donuts, twists and maple bars stand up well, and a Boston cream donut satisfies with sweet custard filling. But for our money, get a raspberry jam donut, filled with a tart jam that plays the perfect balancing agent to the sweet glaze.

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