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Asian Pacific Market is about big portions for stupid cheap 

click to enlarge GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
A pungent fish smell greets patrons at this grocery store, fronted by a deli with big portions for stupid cheap. You can customize a combo meal of fried rice, duck meat and flounder for only $6.99. The fish retains a nice fluffiness with a mild red chili brown sauce and wilted bok choy, while bony bird chews dark and gamey, sweet and sour from an assumed traditional Chinese preparation. The cashier doesn’t know how each is prepared; she suggests I talk to the Taiwanese house chef.

We also nab three dim sum offerings, the first a pair of jumbo buns ($2.99) stuffed with minced chicken, pork and an unknown orb that produces a bright yellow mustard-looking but not -tasting sauce. No idea — we’re told they’re not made on-site. Sticky rice and chicken in a lotus leaf ($2.99) take on an interesting toasted tea-leaf flavor. Four mini custard buns ($1.99) land pleasantly under-sweet, mostly tasting like the shredded coconut they’re rolled in.

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