Favorite

Brooklyn’s twists some classics with guest bartenders 

click to enlarge MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
It had been a spell since we’d made it behind the speakeasy door, a couple times having aborted mission due to wait times. But we get in one evening on the earlier side, catching guest bartender Alan Berger, bar manager at Denver’s Ultreia who had designed four $10 specials for the night. (Ultreia’s a Union Station fixture, part of chef Jennifer Jasinski’s Crafted Concepts portfolio that includes Euclid Hall and Rioja. It’s a tapas and gin-and-tonic spot, and “Ultreia” is a word of encouragement meaning “onward,” spoken to pilgrims on Spain’s famous Camino de Santiago trail, Berger tells us.) We opt for his fresh take on the classic Last Word, here called Rosemary’s Word, for its toasted rosemary garnish; it also substitutes Lee’s Alpine Liqueur for the typical green Chartreuse, otherwise sticking to the lime and maraschino liqueur components for citric and sweet counterpoints. Nicely done. Next up, Berger’s traditional Hanky Panky spinoff, keeping the sweet vermouth and bitter, herbaceous Fernet-Branca, but adding orange bitters and subbing in a rare coconut-macadamia Lee gin for the usual Old Tom gin. We can only scantly detect a nuttiness and coconut flake flavor in the finish, the Fernet ruling the pleasant drink so strongly, but Berger gives us a neat sample of the gin alone, where the coconut plays more prominently. Ultreia
Location Details Brooklyn's on Boulder Street
110 E. Boulder St.
Downtown
Colorado Springs, CO
415-3115
Bar/Club

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