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China One replaces India Palace 

click to enlarge MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper

China One, 5644 N. Academy Blvd., 418-2268, chinaoneco.com

China One took over recently in the former India Palace space, changing up the decor a bit with colored paper lantern pendant lights over the booths and a few other minor cosmetic touches.

Though it remains in place, the old buffet line’s been retired in favor of regular sit-down service in addition to take-out and delivery. Some boxes clutter the dining room’s rear wall; the liquor license is gone; and menu prices appear a few dollars higher on average for similar items elsewhere in town, with no significant portioning or exceptional quality to show for it.

We crunch complimentary, stale wonton crisps with a sweet chile sauce before our Singapore curry ($13.95) and Beijing noodle bowl ($14.95) arrive. The former bears big wok hay but little spice other than the mild, dry yellow curry flavor; its shrimp are nicely cooked soft and chicken and egg bits are abundant for an overall satisfying bite.

The Beijing bowl (traditional-style, we’re told) bears a tart, pleasant bean and soy sauce with also-mild chile influence, bits of ground pork, tiny cubed tofu and fresh cucumber and carrot garnish. The only problem’s the noodles, waterlogged to a gummy texture, as if reheated, which just feel sogged and heavy, spoiling the dish’s finer elements. 

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