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Cogstone Brewing Company celebrates one year true to form 

click to enlarge MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper

Cogstone just celebrated its first anniversary, and has stayed pretty true to the form we first found them in. That means we find a respectable 10-deep list of house beers (we get 4-ounce samples, $1.25 each), brewed tightly to style, but deviating a bit from descriptive tasting notes provided by table talkers.

Duck-fat fries ($5.95) are notably crispier this visit, the perfect post-Palmer Park cycling treat, along with a cream-bleeding burrata ($6.95) on baguette rounds heightened by a sweet balsamic reduction. To the beers: clarity and carbonation are uniformly on point but for a Kolsch we feel could be crisper. The house IPA’s creamy and aromatic, while the chai brown shows nice spice restraint. Cogstone’s Belgians aren’t yeast-heavy, heading towards a barley wine in the dark strong, and only faintly hoppy in the Belgian pale. An Altbier exudes an unexpected coffee vibe, and a nitro barley stout sends us off on a smooth note.

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