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Dueces Wild Brewery and Grinder Sandwich Company pair killer beers and good sandwiches 

click to enlarge Good sandwiches on good bread with good beer? Please! - GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
  • Good sandwiches on good bread with good beer? Please!
Dueces Wild Brewery and Grinder Sandwich Company have staked out a pretty choice location. They’re in a shopping center on Peterson Road, a blink away from Highway 24 and closer yet to World Golf & Sand Creek Golf Course. After all, one deserves a cold beer and a good sandwich after a good round of golf. And after a bad round, one needs it.

Grinder’s menu leans pretty deli-shaped, mostly sandwiches, cookout-style sides and sliders as appetizers. Sandwiches land under $10, side included. Customers can order at the Grinder counter and have their food delivered to Dueces, which explains how busy the employees were on both of our visits despite the near-emptiness of the dining room.

Our first taste is the Big Albert, a slow-cooked pork sandwich on an excellent kaiser brioche roll, courtesy of Sourdough Boulangerie, served with cole slaw and baked beans. The meat’s tender and the sauce atop feels heavy with sugar and vinegar. Try it with the cooling, pleasant slaw. The beans are Bush’s from a can, given a little kick from hickory-smoked bacon, onion, molasses and a few other ingredients co-owner Mike Greenburg won’t share. I’m no fan of sweet beans, but if you are, you’ll be satisfied.

We get better results from both the Petey and the Johnny 2. The Petey’s a generously portioned meatball sub, packed with tender housemade meatballs under from-scratch tomato sauce — that bears a surprising spicy zing from ground-fine red pepper — finished with Parmesan and provolone. The Johnny 2’s a chicken thigh sandwich: Pieces get a delicious glaze made with soy sauce and Dueces Wild’s porter, rich and complex, though our meat arrives overcooked. Bread, greens, onion, tomatoes and mayo do fine with it. We did, of note, find a few semi-raw potato chunks in the potato salad, otherwise functionally sauced if unremarkable.

For dessert, Grinder offers gigantic and very good Sourdough Boulangerie cinnamon rolls or New York-style cheesecake with strawberry sauce, fine but not amazing.

We’ve harped on Dueces Wild for the deliberately misspelled name, and I haven’t seen their logo font of choice since I was sorting through demos from Nickelback and Toby Keith clones in my college radio days. But those don’t matter next to the strength of brewer Jeff Lockhart’s zymurgical skills. Full pours — pints or 12-ounce pours for stronger beers ­— run $6, and crowlers are available too. And every beer we’ve tasted here is a winner.

At 8.8 percent ABV, the imperial IPA, Vlad’s Revenge, packs a wallop, but it’s a smooth and creamy drinker, with a rich amber malt backbone reining in the bitterness of the plentiful hops. The Joker IPA also has a darker malt presence, bearing caramel notes under a bitter bouquet of hops for a less tropical/fruity flavor profile that’s been less popular in craft brewing over the last few years; juicy, this ain’t. The brewery also produces a sound, to-style porter, kölsch and hefeweizen, for fans of dark beers, light and crushable beers, and that banana/baking spice yeast profile, respectively.

But Lockhart’s blood orange pale ale stands out in the lineup. On the nose, it’s pure citrus, floral and sweet. In the sip, slight hop bitterness melds with the citrus and a relatively thin malt body for a beer that drinks like fresh grapefruit juice. Pair it with a good sandwich, a good (or bad) round of golf and a picturesque sunny day.

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