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French fries on your burrito at Taco Salsa 

click to enlarge Salty, chewy carne asada joins the mushy starch of thin french fries, with some mild pico folding into guacamole, melted cheese and crema for a truly creamy bite inside a thick, blistered flour tortilla. - MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
  • Salty, chewy carne asada joins the mushy starch of thin french fries, with some mild pico folding into guacamole, melted cheese and crema for a truly creamy bite inside a thick, blistered flour tortilla.

Taco Salsa, 4701 N. Academy Blvd., 344-9150, see Facebook page

I confess I kinda dig the name. Are you surprised when hearing it to learn that the place stays open 24 hours? Of course you aren’t. What about a drive-thru? De rigueur! So I spin through, encountering quite a large and entirely familiar menu of tacos, burritos, tortas, combo plates, etc. I could be at any of 20-something, maybe double that, places in town with the same, catch-all, Tex-Mex menu of affordable gut-bomb fare, especially good as late-night drunk food.

An employee tells me they’ve been open around a year, and that this is the sole location so far (do I detect an expansion plan in that answer?). I pick a California burrito for a cheap $6.45, considering its girth. Salty, chewy carne asada joins the mushy starch of thin french fries, with some mild pico folding into guacamole, melted cheese and crema for a truly creamy bite inside a thick, blistered flour tortilla.

I certainly don’t feel healthy eating it, but I’m admittedly happy. Side rojo and verde salsas exude ample heat and flavor. A colleague who helps me eat half of it pretty much sums it up by saying “this makes me want to be stoned.” 

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