GeeChee Dee’s Kitchen is as a better take-out spot 

click to enlarge Wings, collard greens, and cornbread. - GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
  • Wings, collard greens, and cornbread.
The light-up sign above the building’s out, but there’s a big plywood sign that reads “restaurant” beside the front door, which bears the eatery’s full name. GeeChee Dee’s, located by the 7-Eleven on Union Boulevard and Delta Drive, has limited seating space — it’s better as a take-out spot. We’re told the Lowcountry kitchen specializes in chicken wings, so we go for that — 10 of their best-selling Jamaican honey wings ($8.50), one of nine options. The meat’s tender under the glaze, which tastes sweet and mildly of baking spices. It’s a subtle flavor, wiped out by hot sauce.

We’re a little happier with the sides, by and large. A small portion of collard greens ($2.35) comes tender and only mildly bitter, salted just enough, with substantial bites of pork adding yet more substance, a much better buddy for that hot sauce than the wings. A small order of cornbread ($2) arrives as a single massive slice, tender and cakey in texture.

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