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Going full Irish at Dublin House 

click to enlarge GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
This long-standing Academy sports bar feels downright creepy in its emptiness on a Friday afternoon. Without a crowd to pack them full, the rooms feel cavernous and a little forgotten, like we’re not supposed to be there. The view’s nice, at least. There’s pool, a stage for karaoke, plenty of TVs for NFL and UFC fans — we even catch the end of a hockey game. Service isn’t particularly attentive, or fast, but as quiet as it is, we guess they must have to heat up the fryer for us.

Everything’s Sysco-sourced, so we go full Irish, ordering fish and chips ($7.99), cooked competently enough. It’s not the best we’ve had in town — they’re still just frozen, triangular cod fillets — but it’s fine enough with a pint of Guinness ($5). Irish nachos ($7.99) usually see shredded corned beef, Swiss cheese and Dijon horseradish sauce over chips, but they were out, so we substitute french fries. It’s fine enough, though the sauce has a notable zing deficiency.

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