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Loyal Coffee’s new north location steady with style 

click to enlarge MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper

Loyal Coffee (Northgate), 11550 Ridgeline Drive, #102, 235-5080, loyalcoffee.co

Three years after Loyal launched downtown, it opened its first expansion in the former Cafe Velo spot, taking its highly stylized approach to coffee north near the doorstep of New Life (mega)Church. They’ve since been met with open arms and steady business; I’m lucky to find a spot in the shared parking lot out front.

Loyal’s coffee remains among the finest anywhere. I take co-owner Tyler Hill’s suggestion for a Kenyan pourover that’s bursting with tropical fruit aroma; I detect papaya, then lime peel after Hill plants the suggestion in my mind; regardless it’s a phenomenal cup of coffee.

Call it a deconstructed red eye, or espresso back, as I pair that with an oversized shot (Loyal’s are almost double-sized for $5) of Edgar’s Apricot Nicaraguan espresso. Hill explains its rarity to me (co-owner Seth Fuller set up the direct trade) and I taste pineapple beyond the apricot, and not a described Nutella as it cools over conversation, but a lively almost cinnamon note by the cup’s end — beautiful beans! I can’t resist a Manitou French Pastries-made chocolate croissant, bearing a powdered sugar-dusted, flaky jacket that falls off like an onion peel to reveal dense dough layers engulfing what’s almost a mini bar of fabulous dark cacao.

And, from the new menu, an item not currently sold downtown, and the punchline of all millennial jokes: avocado toast. It’s far from cheap at $10 once a poached egg’s added, bleeding welcome yolk everywhere, but it’s good atop lightly toasted, thick-cut La Baguette pain rustique bread with a garnish of spring mix.

If anyone can sell it, look to Loyal.

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