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Meet pizza-like Iskender gyro dish at Troy Mediterranean 

click to enlarge MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper

6620 Delmonico Drive, 719-309-6536, troy-mediterraneancuisine.com

Troy opened shortly before the COVID-19 shutdown, in the former Momma Pearl’s Cajun Kitchen location (MPCK having recently moved north to Tracker Drive). My first visit back then told me they needed more time to dial things in: Our falafel was bland and grease-logged; a chicken gyro wrap was just “meh”; a Turkish starter called ezme (a chunky paste of tomato, cucumber and red onion purée with pomegranate molasses) sounded better than it landed, Only the chicken shish kebab really satisfied us, grilled well with flavorful char edges.

On a recent revisit, I gave them another shot to wow us with an order of the locally-lesser-(if-at-all)-seen Iskender, which evokes pizza with initial ’za aromas leading all the way through tart tomato sauce, peppery gyro meat and butter-soaked pita pieces (that stand in for soft crust) plus cooling yogurt topping that replaces melted cheese. I’m not sure that was the intention, but I totally dig it, quickly going online to learn more about the dish, which originated in the Ottoman Empire. It tends to be assembled tableside, where the tomato sauce and butter are poured onto the pita and meat. I grab mine to go (it holds up surprisingly well on the way home), telling myself I’ll eat only half of the mound but devouring it all in one sitting anyway.

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