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Pan dulces a mixed bag at La Sinaloense 

click to enlarge La Sinaloense has long been a stop for pan dulces, the generic pastries seen at every Mexican bakery, like cuernos, conchas and cocoles. - MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
  • La Sinaloense has long been a stop for pan dulces, the generic pastries seen at every Mexican bakery, like cuernos, conchas and cocoles.

La Sinaloense
642 S. Academy Blvd., 550-1213.

La Sinaloense has long been a stop for pan dulces, the generic pastries seen at every Mexican bakery, like cuernos, conchas and cocoles. Considering their size, the treats are remarkably inexpensive — typically around a buck and change each, making for a cheap way to please officemates by bringing a big bag of mixed sweets back to the coffee area.

From the trio of jammed pastry cases at La Sinaloense, I make a restrained run for just enough items to meet the $5 credit-card minimum, as I’m not carrying cash at the moment. Less of a pan dulce and more of a co-opted bagel, a jalapeño and sweet queso pastry just tastes like cream cheese with a few chile coins thrown in (surely any profit disappeared in food costs, I speculate).

Two empanadas present fall flavors, like faint cinnamon: One’s a pumpkin, like purée from a can, while the other, a sweet potato, appears as a sticky sap that doesn’t jibe with two of our four tasters assembled around a break room table. The best of the batch, we decide, is a pineapple “burrito” (in the pastry attendant’s words), oven-browned, folded pastry dough bleeding a highly sweet, tacky piña jelly that’s pretty true to the plain fruit flavor. 

Location Details La Sinaloense
642 S. Academy Blvd.
Airport
Colorado Springs, CO
550-1213
Mexican/Tex-Mex/Southwestern and Bakeries

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