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Phantom Canyon's newer takes on old times 

click to enlarge MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
We’re coming up on two years since Phantom renovated and redesigned itself, but playing pool and darts upstairs still feels like old times. Though beers are more fun and sophisticated now, like a barrel-aged “Manhattan cocktail” rye called Shattered ($3/happy hour), which hits hard at 8.9 percent ABV, bearing faint cherry notes (on which it was aged), though lesser detectible plum and grapefruit also played a role in the making.

Equally uppity on the food side: a highly enjoyable jalapeño crab dip ($12) defines richness with bacon backing and sourdough crostini made with wild yeast (yay for old-school baking). And I wouldn’t have called it a PB&J salad ($11), but I see where Phantom’s going with toasted pistachio butter as the lead-off flavor (yum), meeting beet sweet and grapefruit bitter, with goat cheese tang and creaminess. Ours came over spinach but the menu reads arugula, whose pepperiness I’m sure elevates the affair.

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