Pints Pub's meat-and-potatoes appeal 

click to enlarge GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell

Despite lacking any trendy culinary influence, overt craft element, or indeed, anything one might deem sexy about a restaurant, Pints Pub is a personal favorite Denver spot, now in its 23rd year. British pub food has a certain meat-and-potatoes appeal, so we go for exactly that with the sheepherder’s stew ($11.50), replacing the side salad with creamy mashers and satisfying onion gravy. The stew itself, lamb, goes down rich and meaty, with tender potato, peas and carrots. It comes with a seed-studded kaiser roll, good for dipping and mopping.

Better, try the brewer’s bangers and mash ($13), which drops the roll and stew for a salad and delicious boiled-then-grilled pork sausage, creamy with sage and pepper notes. Skipping the 11 house-brewed ales, including two unique cask-conditioned brews for the adventurous drinker, we explore the pub’s massive single-malt scotch selection, trying a Freshman Course ($25) of four, showing off the diversity in Scotch whiskies. Our only disappointment: There’s not much for my gluten-free co-diner beyond the salad menu.


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