Poe Pies' fillings shine, but a little rough around the edges 

click to enlarge GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
It’s a rough day for Ross Bunting. He’s forgotten his phone, so he’s cash-only when we hit Poe Pies at Fossil Craft Beer Company. While we have enough cash for a combo ($8), consisting of one sweet and one savory fried pie, he insists on including another savory pie ($6) we’d already ordered, so we only pay $10 that night — and we don’t think he recognizes us as press. We end up with an Oklahoma onion burger pie, a Cajun-inspired natty pie, and a pineapple pie for dessert. The first’s a blissful blast of onion and beef, well-seasoned and savory, perfect with beer. The natty pie, beef and pork with Cajun seasoning and green onions, also bears good filling. The pineapple recalls favorably a pineapple upside-down cake, though brown sugar drowns the fruit’s flavor and acidity by bite two. And while all three bear a crisp crust, each exudes frying oil, resulting in a meal that sits like a brick. A roll of paper towels for blotting and maybe a higher fry temp would help, letting sound fillings shine.


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