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Rocky Mountain Brewery has all the ingredients 

click to enlarge Two flights, 10 beers. - GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
  • Two flights, 10 beers.
For a craft brewer to have 10 good beers shows an impressive feat of brewing skill. This long-standing Powers-area brewery does host 10 taps, plus even more available by can or six-pack in the fridge (strictly for off-site consumption, a sign warns). Rocky Mountain Brewery's warehouse space feels like a great, familiar hangout. With consistent food service from two trucks, all the ingredients are there for a killer neighborhood spot.

Trouble is, they don’t have 10 good beers. Over two samplers ($5), we discover pervasive brewing issues: Every beer sips thin and a little sweet. That’s enjoyable for fruit-dominant alcopop beers like peach cyder or Da’ Yoopers, which sip like peach rings and cherry pie filling, respectively. The IPA and, to a lesser extent, the double IPA also do fine due to big hop profiles. But going down the list, a blonde lager, amber, “brunette” nut brown, red IPA, and a baffling rice-boosted malt liquor suffer badly. The hefeweizen further lacks the banana-clove yeast flavor that defines the style. RMB’s walls are decked with brewing awards, including World Beer Cup nods, but it’s telling that the newest dates to 2012. Something’s gone askew in the brew room, and we hope RMB’s prolific fermenters can get back on track.

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