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Serrano’s survives its brick-and-mortar predecessor in Woodland Park 

click to enlarge MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
I find Serrano’s, an offshoot of a now-closed Woodland Park restaurant, outside BierWerks Brewery. I learn brewer-since-2012 James McGraw left some months ago, and BierWerks now works with Denver brewer Bill Eye (formerly of Dry Dock and Prost, now operator of Bierstadt Lagerhaus). More taps host guest beers at this time, and nothing brewed on-site’s ready, so I grab a golden, bready, refreshing Helles lager made by Eye in Denver, I’m told. The light beer helps cut the oily overtone of our taco array, which, considering the $3 price point ($3.50 for fish), rates middling at best. Yeah, they’re pretty loaded with meat, to the degree that all the corn tortillas rupture after a first bite, but seasoning lacks vibrancy overall — even the pastor lacks discernible pineapple influence — and many of the meats are cooked dry (Happy Chicken, I’m cluckin’ at you), or just past ideal texture (no gooey center in the pork belly). Chewy asada and the coleslaw-fresh cod rate the better of the batch.

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