Formerly known as King Taco, Tacos Navarro
was a favorite when the Indy
last stopped by seven years ago. On this visit, we pick up a street tacos combo ($6.99) — five tacos and a canned soda — and another five-taco plate provocatively named tacos ilegales ($6.99). We also nab house horchata ($4/32-ounce), which tastes like the freeze-dried marshmallows in children’s breakfast cereal. For street tacos, we get one of each offered — carne asada, buche (pork stomach), pastor, barbacoa and carnitas. Most are oily and indistinct under minced white onion and cilantro, though the standout buche’s very rich. House salsas delight, especially extra hot orange salsa that grows from ember to inferno. The ilegales, a mound of asada, bacon, ham, cheese and onions atop corn tortillas, is pure greasy gut bomb indulgence. Salsa’s not mandatory, but with these build-your-own tacos, it’s highly recommended.