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Umami with conviction at Bamboo Garden 

click to enlarge Bamboo Garden, 11605 Meridian Market View, #172, Peyton, 886-7020, bamboogardenpeyton.com - GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
  • Bamboo Garden, 11605 Meridian Market View, #172, Peyton, 886-7020, bamboogardenpeyton.com

We’re glad to see folks showing up for dinner at this strip mall Chinese joint. News media like The Washington Post and Eater have been reporting that American Chinese restaurants have lost business due to irrational, prejudiced fears over coronavirus.

So it’s good to see that residents of Peyton and Falcon aren’t getting suckered by that particular nugget of racism. We’re there for appetizers, so we order a plate of
sesame wings. Four wings and four drumsticks arrive breaded and fried, tossed in sesame seed sauce — General Tso’s sauce with sesame seeds and less chile heat.

The breading keeps its crunch under the sticky, sweet-spicy sauce, and the meat’s juicy, a worthwhile twist on the classic.

We also split a
po po platter, which comes with unsauced wings, tender pork ribs tossed in five spice powder-forward char siu sauce, well-stuffed cream cheese Rangoons, shrimp fried in a breading so thick it’s almost a pastry, and skewers of thin, crispy beef with a sauce that screams umami with conviction.

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