There’s no way I can miss the bright blue On The Hook truck at the Rockrimmon neighborhood Walgreens. 

Their line of customers crosses the parking lot and makes a nuisance as I try to park, and soon I’m one more part of the problem. What’s interesting is the fact that this Laramie, Wyoming-based company, which opened in 2016, has enough trucks in its school to cover 10 states on the power of a two-item menu: fish and chips. We get a meal, which consists of three pieces of beer-battered Alaskan cod over a small pile of fries, served with custom-branded plastic cups of tartar and sriracha mayo, with big-brand ketchup included and malt vinegar packets available.

Our portion of fish comes in a coating that’s light in texture, but it’s been overcooked. Still, it’s salted appropriately and bears flecks of herbs that have lost their flavor to the overcooking. Those fries come thin, crisp on the outside, soft inside, cooked beautifully and a cut above most. The overall meal’s better than what I’ve had at most sports bars, but it’s not mind-blowing enough to justify the line. 

Griffin Swartzell is a food reviewer and contributor for the Colorado Springs Indy. This Colorado Springs native joined as an intern in early 2014, freelancing until they joined the staff full-time in late 2015.