Food writers more devout than I probably have a better term for what Garlic & Spice Kitchen serves than “American eclectic,” but this eatery in Ecclesia Market’s “main” room aims for that niche, by our estimation. It ticks all the boxes: a variety of sandwiches including burgers, flatbread pizzas, candied bacon and barbecued meats peppered in where appropriate.

We opt for the cheddar biscuit brisket slider plate, which includes two such sliders, as well as coleslaw and choice of side. We get tortilla chips with artichoke dip, which has a nice tang and a good creamy texture, and we’d worry about chip snappage if the chips weren’t as thick and sturdy as they are.

The sliders’ brisket comes mildly smoky and lean — we wish for a little more of the scant amount of cherry pepper jam that adds much-needed moisture. The biscuit isn’t overwhelmingly cheesy, but it’s soft and savory with just a bit of crunch. Skip the coleslaw, which lacks seasoning.

Griffin Swartzell is a food reviewer and contributor for the Colorado Springs Indy. This Colorado Springs native joined as an intern in early 2014, freelancing until they joined the staff full-time in late 2015.