Opened in early 2020, Fish & Company locks down the seafood options at the Castle Rock food hall, Ecclesia Market. Given that Ecclesia is a former church, we wonder if Fish & Co. is particularly busy on Fridays.
But we don’t wonder for long, because when our clam chowder shows up, there’s little space left for jokes. It’s New England-style (white, as opposed to tomato-based Manhattan chowder), full of bacon, potatoes, onion and, of course, clams. Texturally, it’s substantial but not too thick, and it sips rich but not too rich.
Of our two ordered items, it’s the favorite, though we’re left wondering about the spicy catfish burger they’re out of on our visit. It’s hard to find fish and chips that wow like that chowder, and this plate of fried Pacific cod impresses. The fish comes soft but toothsome in its crisp jacket, which adds a little bit of baking spice to the affair, just enough to perfume each bite without overwhelming.
On server advice, we upgrade the irregularly cut chip/fries to garlic Parmesan truffle fries, which, under shreds of Parm, rate sound but not amazing. There’s just enough truffle oil to be unmistakable but minced garlic from the jar is more sour than garlicky.