We praised the original Southeast Springs Mariscos Altamar restaurant when we visited in 2017, so when the superlative (if hard to find) original expanded into this spot, the former Los Faroles/El Rey Del Taco Express, we had high hopes. Long story short, they nailed it.
We order the fillet in culichi sauce and wind up not with green, non-spicy poblano-based sauce, but a spicy orange-red sauce we suspect is their chipotle sauce, on account of the fact that it tastes smoky and spicy — that is, like a chipotle pepper. The tender white fish swims in this thick, creamy sauce, which has enough acidity to cut through its heaviness. With side rice, salad and fried potato slices, it’s a hell of a good meal.
So are the tacos gobernador, a plate of three griddled tacos full of chopped shrimp, onion, bell pepper and cheese. Between the shrimp’s buttery mouthfeel, the toastiness of the peppers and onions and plenty of garlic, each is great. In particular, the sweetness of the shrimp goes beautifully with that toasty quality, genuinely excellent seafood.