We’ve had a paucity of excellent new po’boy spots and myriad mediocrities defined by under-seasoned protein and the use of mayo with seafood instead of good, flavorful remoulade.

Lish’s Po’Boys does not have this problem when we visit the truck’s scheduled Saturday spot Downtown in the Springs. With that, no reason not to get to the meat of it — or the seafood of it rather, since the crawfish po’boy rates particularly splendid.

Cornmeal-breaded mudbugs hold a good crunch and plenty of garlic, onion and paprika flavor notes on their own. They’re paired with a sweet, tangy coleslaw that bears plenty of seasoned salt on a soft hoagie roll. It’s sauced with a remoulade that, by our estimation, is aces thanks to plenty of chunky pickle bits and mustard, onion and cayenne notes. It’s also served on the side of the fish and chips in place of tartar sauce, where it does wonders for buttery pieces of catfish and its light, thoroughly seasoned breading.

Fries, cut fast-food thin, rate sound, as does the slaw, though it’s pretty wet as it’s served. We also try the chicken po’boy, which is huge thanks to the beer batter-like coating on the meat, tender within its carbohydrate casing. It, too, is damn good.

Fiona Truant is a food reviewer and contributor for the Colorado Springs Indy. This Colorado Springs native joined as an intern in early 2014, freelancing until they joined the staff full-time in late 2015.