Relocated last year from 432 N. Circle Drive, Las Americas resides in the space that formerly housed Magic Wok and Las Cazuelas Mexican. When we last checked out the old location in mid-2017, we enjoyed Salvadoran pupusas and a slice of tres leches cake.
This time, the mole con pollo grabs us, served with tortillas and a choice of two sides for $13.99; we go Mexican rice and hearty charro beans (named for Mexican cowboys, served soupy with stewed pintos, and here with bits of chopped hot dog). Traditional Mexican moles come in many varieties and classically incorporate chiles and some fruit or nut among many other ingredients, but in the U.S. “mole” almost always signals mole negro, the inky-dark, cacao-bitter version laced with spices like cinnamon, clove and anise, that sometimes gets prepared overly sweet, catering to gringos.
Here, I receive a drumstick and breast, both shedding meat from bone at the touch of a fork. The thick, savory mole sauce clings to the skin with garnishing sesame seeds and tastes mildly spicy at first but builds some heat across the mouth before the whole rich affair ends. There’s not as complex a bouquet of seasoning and spices as some versions I’ve tried but there’s nothing not to like about the meal.