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At its height as a Springs-launched, family-owned Colorado sandwich franchise, S.S. Subs had 19 locations, says Bryan Heath, owner of this Fountain store­ — one of only two left standing. It’s more than 50 years old, and been in his family for 30 years; he began working in it at age 11.

Of the nearly 40 total sandwich options, 30 were in all the shops, and others are unique to his, including some “secret” options like the Gut Buster and Porker. We nab 6-inch sections of the very reasonably priced pastrami and Swiss ($4.95), Italian style ($5.25) and Dagwood ($9.99) — all notably fresh and excellent, thanks to quality ingredients like local Delicias Bakery bread and carefully sourced cheeses and meats (house-sliced), some imported from Italy.

The peppery pastrami pops with garnishing white onion sharpness smoothed by the nutty Swiss. The perfect amount of tangy Italian vinaigrette (so as not to sog) adds contrasting acidity to hard salami, spicy capicola ham and provolone with fixings.

The kitchen-sink Dagwood is a huge beast of a bite, worth every penny, layering ham, turkey, roast beef, pastrami, salami, bologna and bacon with American, Swiss and provolone plus lettuce, onion, tomato and pickles, and we add cucumbers for crunch. It’s barely bite-able, but a damn sensation. I can’t recall liking subs more than these.

Food & Drink Editor

Matthew Schniper is the Food and Drink Editor at the Colorado Springs Indy. He began freelancing with the Indy in mid-2004 and joined full-time in early 2006, contributing arts, food, environmental and feature writing.