Long-standing India Palace, owned by chef Raj Kumar, was replaced by China One a little over a year ago when Kumar’s family chose to make more time to raise young’uns with proper energy and attention.
However, China One ceased to be in 2020, which left Kumar’s family in a pickle, as they were subletting to fill lease obligations. So they decided to reopen under this new name in October 2020. And while everything has slowed the issuance of their new liquor license, the food, at least, passes muster on our visit.
A mixed platter of appetizers lets us sample a big, beautifully spiced veggie samosa, chicken and paneer pakora fried in gram flour-based batter, and lovely tangles of onion in veggie pakoras. Paneer naan comes stuffed with paneer and spinach, its tandoor char and cumin lingering nicely.
Our entrée, chicken korma, sings with ginger and more reserved cumin from the rice it’s served with, even in its rich sauce; we don’t even mind the slightly dry meat. Worth noting, we order ours at medium heat and find that it burns hot, blunt and long-lasting. It’s a worthy victory lap for Kumar and fam.