Sisu (explained on the menu as a Finnish term meaning “going against all odds with grit and bravery”) replaced Cafe Red Point in the Lincoln Center this past May, but basically exists as a near replica of it (menu-wise), with an added, mini boutique of locally made crafts and artisan goods arranged in the corner of the dining area (hence the “mercantile” part of its name). It’s operated by neighboring Building Three Coffee’s owners, who purchased Red Point and its recipes from former owner/founder Dan Fuhr. Sisu’s kitchen remains entirely gluten-free, and lists 98-percent organic products (for fair prices with that in mind). Sisu’s early social media posts invited guests to return for old favorites (i.e., the embrace of Red Point’s health-food focus) and some new items, like a waffle sandwich born out of the popular paleo waffle (which remains on the list). I’m just out of a workout nearby and drawn to the Power Egg Bowl, which is just slightly tweaked from its prior incarnation. It’s now a generous bed of quinoa topped with sautéed spinach, halved grape tomatoes, pickled-pink onions, a fried egg and chewy chunks of grilled steak — I squirt sriracha atop mine from a small condiment area near the order counter. Everything tastes fresh and bright, the tomato and onions adding ample acidity to complement the steak — nicely cooked medium and with mostly lean bite — and the egg filling, making for three good protein sources when you count the quinoa. To pair, I get the Gron smoothie (formerly named the Green Machine, if that was your drink), which blends kale and spinach with pineapple, ginger and lime in a coconut water base, with a touch of honey sourced locally. It’s zingy from the ginger and faintly biting from the lime, too, but nicely balanced between the vegetal elements and tropical sweetness — definitely refreshing.

Food & Drink Editor

Matthew Schniper is the Food and Drink Editor at the Colorado Springs Indy. He began freelancing with the Indy in mid-2004 and joined full-time in early 2006, contributing arts, food, environmental and feature writing.