SmallCakes, part of a national chain, opened in 2015 on Academy Boulevard, but it was only in 2020 that the Springs location spawned a mobile unit to peddle its sugary wares at local food truck gatherings. It’s not the first chain to reverse the typical path from truck to storefront.
Moving past this drop of the deep weird that oozed from 2020 at every ramshackle turn, we ordered three cupcakes: a wedding cake, a peanut butter cup and a lemon drop. Texturally, the cakes are all light as clouds, topped with creamy, sweet, relatively light buttercream — much lighter than, say, jarred frosting and its ilk.
The wedding cake comes topped with an off-white frosting and silver sugar pearls, its cake and frosting all flavored with almond. On first bite, it’s so heavily flavored with that almond that it’s gained stone fruit notes, which may be a turn-off for some. The peanut butter cup’s our favorite of the three, frosting tasting of peanut butter without being either sickly sweet or too thick, and the chocolate cake pairs just fine.
We’re underwhelmed by the lemon drop, though, which sees vanilla cake and buttercream with a lemon gel core and topping, similar in texture to the interior of a Hostess fruit pie and too mellow in flavor and citrus bite to stand out against all that vanilla and sugar. Still, two out of three winners ain’t bad.