Chef/owner Josh Manthey opened this past July in a former Burger King that’s been overhauled into a respectable barbecue joint with an attached bar. Peak View sports a commendable all-Colorado craft beer tap list that’s likely the best in Woodland Park. But we’re picking up to-go, so skip the booze and start with Texas Twinkies.
Far from dessert, they’re actually a half-dozen baked-to-a-wrinkled-skin jalapeños stuffed with a gooey cheese blend and brisket bits then wrapped with chewy bacon and served with Ranch. They’re a likable, fatty heat treat like something you’d find on a game-day hors d’oeuvres platter at a buddy’s house. You can go online to Food Network to find a recipe for Big Bob Gibson’s White Sauce, which I select over other common barbecue sauces with my order of a hickory-and oak-smoked half chicken.
That sauce hails from a nearly 100-year-old barbecue place in Decatur, Alabama, and it bears some resemblance to a slaw dressing given dominating mayo and vinegar. I don’t love it, but I’m glad I tried it (given I grew up in Birmingham) and it certainly bears enough acid to stand up to any meat. The browned bird tastes like a basic rotisserie chicken with an ample smoke cloak, proficient and ready for finger plucking. Texas toast backs up a crunchy, lightly dressed cabbage slaw that could use more seasoning to pop, while soft green beans float in water with pork bits that leave their flavor mark, along with a hot sauce hint.