Newly opened Thai Taste replaces Panbers Asian Bistro, and owner Krystina Pascua formerly had a stake in Lanna Thai off North Union Boulevard she says. She grew up in eastern Thailand but also lived in Bangkok, and like many Thai restaurateurs, she insists her cuisine is authentic.
We pick up to-go, starting with steamed, open-topped dumplings called Kanom Jeeb. They’re stuffed with minced, not-strongly-seasoned chicken, mushroom and carrots to form something of a meatball, topped in fried garlic bits that we wish added more flavor in addition to the garnishing cilantro and “special” (some soy-like) sauce.
A better display of chicken comes via the Khao Soi, the northern Thai street dish increasing in popularity in the U.S. Flat egg noodles swim in a chicken curry coconut milk bath with sharp red onions and ample chewy chicken threads, garnished with a bird’s nest of wispy, crispy fried egg noodles.
We order it hot, and chile spice delivers, though we don’t much taste listed pickled lettuce (traditionally mustard greens), and while enjoyable, the dish finishes a touch sweet, which feels unnecessary. Sweetness is what we want out of coconut ice cream, but it finishes not with a natural coconut flavor, but a somewhat perfumy, cloying taste, and essential ground peanut topping is missing (left out of our bag).
Despite shortcomings, prices are notably fair and the online ordering system runs smoothly, with accurate time quotes and follow-up emails and texts.