Tobala Fine Mexican, tacos

Mobile business, 719-301-0766, tobalacuisine.com

This newbie food truck comes via Chef Fernando Trancoso, who explains on a video on Tobala’s website that he hails from central Mexico and spent years in Santa Fe restaurants.

Much of that was fine dining, he says, noting he’s a sommelier too, but he calls tacos “my love” and says Tobala’s a take on fine dining tacos. Hence not-cheap $14 four-taco plates that put us out $36 post tax/tip before we’ve even purchased a pint at Storybook Brewing, where we catch the truck.

That puts the pressure on them to outperform tacos elsewhere at roughly half that price, and the carnitas pretty much do, their oily confit pork bearing juicy fat bites, some crisp char edges and excellent flavor with pickled onion relish and the addition of a piquant chile verde salsa. Kudos. But the pastor tacos don’t fully measure up for us.

They’re good, but not $3.50 per taco great, generous like the carnitas on the meat portioning per soft corn tortilla, and bright with the acid of fresh pineapple garnish. But clove essence dominates the marinated pork seasoning, distracting from the tender meat’s inherent flavor, and a paired red salsa reads thin, mild and uninteresting.

Side creamy corn topped in a Tajín dusting is soft and a little mushy like canned corn, with a more generic mayo feel than typical on-the-cob elote with cotija cheese saltiness. If you call yourself “fine” and charge accordingly, you need to be fully on point. 

Food & Drink Editor

Matthew Schniper is the Food and Drink Editor at the Colorado Springs Indy. He began freelancing with the Indy in mid-2004 and joined full-time in early 2006, contributing arts, food, environmental and feature writing.