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Sometimes you just need some gumbo. The weather doesn’t matter. The general state of the nation doesn’t matter. The gumbo is what matters. I’m pleased to find Williams Soul Food truck, not far from me, for a lunchtime run. I expect good food, and I get it.

I dig into the greens first, cooked down and spiked with a little pork, a little red pepper, a little garlic, and some salt. They’ve got a hint of natural sweetness balanced with just enough tang from vinegar, and a nice heat that builds up on the back of your tongue. That’s something I notice about all the food here. None of it is crazy, jump-in-your-face spicy. The flavors are all good, and that slow heat creeps up as you progress through your meal. Co-owner Ernest Williams told us back in 2020, when the Indy last tried their food, that “I’m putting my heart and soul into it when I cook.”

The chicken and sausage gumbo scratches the itch. Tons of chicken, plus spicy sausage, and a few small but tender shrimp, swimming around in that roux-thickened broth with the holy trinity of celery, peppers and onions over a generous scoop of white rice. Next I try crawfish étouffée, served over the same rice, equally delicious but in a completely different fashion. The briny flavor of crawfish dominates the dish, sumptuous and savory. But the dish that wins my heart? The boudin balls, the size of tennis balls, fried to a perfect golden brown. Think of sausage-studded dirty rice, rolled into a big ball and fried until the outside is crunchy and the inside is steaming hot. The boudin balls — made in-house like the sausages — come with a side of remoulade sauce that adds a perfect bit of tangy heat.

A nice feature: Williams offers several of their dishes precooked and frozen, packaged in a size to feed four. They also carry frozen homemade smoked sausage. For either of these options, I would call ahead for availability. Right now, I can’t think of any better sense of security than knowing I had some of that gumbo in the freezer.